Dear Vi,

When opening a bottle of wine for a customer, where on the table should I present the cork? How long should I leave the cork on the table? If the cork breaks, should I present it to the customer, and should I say anything about it breaking? Finally, how much wine should be poured for proper tasting?

J. Michael Burke Omaha, NE

Dear Mike,

A waiter should first smell the cork to see if it smells of the wine and not the cork itself. Then feel the cork to ensure that it was properly stored. This of course without a lot of fanfare which can be misinterpreted and isn't routinely part of American service. Place the cork directly on the table to the right of the host's wine glass. About 1/2 ounce is poured into the host's glass for a taste to assure that the wine isn't "corked" (when the wine tastes like cork) before offering to the remainder of the guests. After approval, wine is poured, ladies first, beginning at the left of the host and continuing clockwise around the table. After serving the women, serve the men counter clockwise, ending with the host. Pick up the cork, and place the bottle on the table, label facing the host.

In the very old days, it was considered improper to have any aspect of the wine touch the table. Today, however, wine if frequently opened directly on the table or in the ice bucket for a better insert. It is best to use a coaster to keep the tablecloth clean. A B&B plate will suffice.

The best wines come with long corks, but even these are known to break. If this happens, try not to draw a lot of attention. A little humor can add comic levity or, if the guest is obviously nervous, explain yourself to insure that it is you and not the wine that is a bit off.

Lastly, invest in a good corkscrew, with a rounded tip. They can be purchased at most wine stores, or ask a wine purveyor. S/he may supply these at no cost.