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Spark Gap
The spark gap is the
make or break part of a Tesla Coil, it is what times allows the tank
circuit to resonate, and a poorly tuned SG will lead to a poorly
working Tesla coil. It is essentially a high frequency switch,
allowing the amps to flow when it is on, and shutting off when they are
to low to effectively transmit energy. There are several types of
spark gaps
employed by Tesla coilers, single static, multiple static, synchronous
and asynchronous rotary, and other stuff way to fancy to mention
here. Single
static is by far the most simple, it consists of two electrodes,
between which an arc is formed. When the voltage potential gets
high enough in the capacitors, the energy is discharged through the gap
allowing tank oscillations. In theory (and only in theory), it
only discharges when the caps are
fully charged. It
is tuned simply by adjusting
the length of the gap, and often forced air, vacuum, or a magnetic
field is used to promote proper quenching (which means it will stay
unlit at the earliest notch possible). Multiple gaps are
better, as the heat is shared by several different surfaces, so cooling
and quenching is easier. I have never personally had good luck
with multiple gaps, but virtually everybody else has, so try it.
Rotary gaps are next, there are two kinds, synchronous and
asynchronous. An asynchronous gap causes the firings to occur at
a regular time period regardless of the voltage of the
capacitor. This means more consistent firings, and more even
power put into the coil. a synchronous gap does the same thing,
but fires at a fixed interval with the current supply frequency.
The result is, assuming you phased the gap correctly, that you get
maximum possible energy per bang, as the tank cap is always at max
charge. Phasing refers to the time in the cycle the gap fires,
proper phasing is at the peak of the supply voltage, for a 120 BPS
sync gap (or 100 in Europe). You can also configure a sync gap
to fire at other levels, like 240, or 480 BPS, whether this
advantageous
is dependent on a lot of variables, so you'll need to experiment.
Here are some gap pictures.

this is my first spark
gap, a simple two bolt arrangement, it sits atop the OBIT powering it,
the capacitors are in the upper left, see the foil?

This is called a Marx gap or
"sucker gap" only mine doesn't suck, it blows (don't snicker, it's
true). The blower is a modified jobby built primarily by my
cousin Jason (thanks a million). Air is forced through the narrow
opening between the two copper pipes, extinguishing the arc, I have
used
this gap with both my small and large TCs with good success.
This is my first experimental rotary gap, I never used it because
it had serious construction issues, but it was still neat, so I decided
to put it here.


This is my best synchronous rotary
spark gap, laboriously crafted by my cousin Jason and I, it is
switchable between 120 and 240 BPS, and has an optional quenching gap,
and a safety gap for over voltage protection. It is the finest
gap
we have made to date.