The high voltage transformer supplies electricity to a Tesla coil,
taking wall voltage (120 or 240 volts) and boosts it to kilovolt
levels. There are several
types favored by Tesla enthusiasts, neon sign transformer (NST), oil
burner ignition transformer (OBIT), microwave oven transformer (MOT),
power distribution transformer (pole pig) and the potential
transformer (also called a pole pig, somtimes).
Neon sign
transformers are used to light neon signs (duh,,, but sometimes they
are called "luminous tube transformers, which you might not have
known!)
they usually range
from 7,000 to 15,000 volts, and from 20 to 130 mA. They are
current limited, meaning the amperage put out is limited so you don't
need a ballast to use them, this is done by inserting magnetic shunts
between the primary and secondary coils to provide leakage inductance
and absorb some of the
power.
Oil burner ignition transformers are
used to ignite oil furnaces, and are almost always 10,000V at 23 mA (I
have seen one of different ratings, but it was a small solid state
transformer which would not have worked on a TC.) They are also
current
limited
and are much like the neon sign
transformer in most aspects, and are frequently used in parallel to
increase amperage (I use them, and have had good success, but note,
with current limited transformers you must put both the primaries and
secondaries in parallel, or else they won't work). Please note,
many NSTs and OBITs have two secondary windings, half the potential to
the ground. It is
important for safety and longevity reasons to ground transformers with
current
limiting, because if you don't and all is not well inside the
transformer, the case of the transformer will float at several thousand
volts, I have been zapped before, it is not fun, attach a wire from the
case to the mains ground (usually there is a bolt or a screw for this
purpose). Some people falsely believe that grounding your
transformer will reduce it's output, don't listen to them, they are
stupid and are going off a gut feeling and have never done the math
(reduced output from grounding is a sign of a bad transformer, if this
happens, fix or chuck the unit and get a different one, and make sure
the new one is grounded so it doesn't go bad like the last one!
Or perhaps your phasing is incorrect, switch ground all the units
together, then wire thme up with the secondarys that don't arc together
connected, that is the proper way.
Microwave oven transformers are sometimes
used, they rate from 1,500 to
3,000 volts (usually 2000) at high milliamperage depending largly on
input, but 120volt 20amp breaker usually gives about 200 mA (the
voltage output is to
low for normal
usage, but you can
stack
them with primaries in parallel and secondaries in series to obtain
higher voltages, which makes them highly formidible because of their
high
amperage) they are not well current limited (they do have magnetic
shunts,
but they do a lousey job of reducing current), and require a ballast as
well as a corona suppressant, as they are not potted (some people
submerge their stacks in mineral oil. On more than a four
transformer
stack this is almost always necessary unless you use very fancy wiring
which floats the outer primaries at a higher potential, but this
requires about
double the MOTs you would normally use). One
note, on MOTs the high
voltage ground is usually attached to the core, for best results,
disconnect
it,
or you will have problems with shorting to the core.
The power
distribution
transformer (pole pig), is a gargantuan transformer (the holy grail of
Tesla
coil tranformers). They are those large cylinders on power lines
that
reduce high voltage from the line, to send it into your house, to use
them for coiling, you run it backwards, putting 240 in, and getting
14.4kV out. A
potential transformer does the same thing but it is for testing
instruments on the line,
not your house. Either one of these puppies will give you 10-23
kV (14.4 is common in the US) at
hundreds of milliamps (200 and well beyond, depending on input, some
potentials go beyond a few amps) they are rated by the kVA, so a 10 kVA
can put out 14.4 kV at 694 ma without exceeding the ratings. They
are of
course not current limited
so a ballast is an absolute must, and a power factor correction
capacitor really helps as well, but if used properly,
they are
virtually indestructible. I want one of these so bad, but they
are incredibly hard to get a hold of (legally, it would be easy to
steal one, But I can't do that!)
Often it is possible to repair a "dead" NST or OBIT
transformer,
depending on what is wrong with it, if it is just something not
connected, it is a simple matter of de-potting the thing by soaking it
in a solvent, and re-connecting the loose or fried wire. If a
secondary has a short, occasionally only a few windings need to be
removed to bridge the short, so not much voltage is lost, and worse
case scenario, you can use windings from two identical KIA
donors to make one living Frankenstein's monster. I have attemped
to rebuild some dead OBITs, but while I was "in there" I thought about
to cutting down on primary turns and current limiting, so as to get
higher kilovolts, and milliamperage. Or maybe I could have
attached
additional
secondaries pirated from another transformer in series to double the
voltage, and keep the amperage, 20KV at 115 or 120 ma is astronomical,
and rivals some of the potentials or MOT stacks available,
but the
experiment was not a success because of time constraints. It was
not likely to last very long anyway, so it will
inevitably be a failure (the primary and secondary wire is to thin, and
the insulation is to weak, to make a practical transformer). Only
if I wind a transformer completely
from scratch, using sufficiently thick wire, will I be able to build a
super transformer, that will last for a decent amount of time, and this
is not worth the effort as it will take centuries to complete, I will
spend a fortune on wire, and it may or may not work; so for now,
recessitated OBITs and MOTs will do.
Somtimes OBITs and NSTs are solid state transformers,
they
basically work like a miniature tesla coil
themselves,
they operate at a high
frequency to get higher voltage, so they cannot charge
capacitors correctly (unless they are rectified and used in a DC coil,
but that is a "whole 'nother ball game"). The rule of thumb is if
it is really
light and small and encased in plastic, it will not work. A regular
transformer
takes up a lot of space,
and is alost always in a metal case, and will have a ground screw
attached
to it somwhere. If it is one of these seen below, you are good to
go.
Her are some OBITs and MOTs.
For new
Tesla coil, I am useing a four or six MOT stack as my power supply,
they are powerful, but somwhat unreliable buggers. One has to
wire them all in phase, or they will fight, instead of cooperate.
Also they have a tendancy to burn out, I have blown about 6 of them,
but I may be doing something wrong, more on that later.