Chemical Baths: Making the Invisible, Visible
Unlike enlarging exposure times, chemical bathing times are the same for all prints.

Remember 2-1-2-3-1 for how many minutes the print remains in each chemical.

Note: Sliding the print into the chemical (as opposed to plopping it onto the surface) as well as agitating the print in the chemical ensures maximum chemical exposure for all parts of the print.
Exciting note: Once the print goes from the Fixer to the water, it is safe to turn on the lights. Check out your print in the light while it rinses!
You can leave your print in the final water rinse if you need to get a place for it to dry ready. Letting it sit for a little while in the final water bath will not hurt it.
Caution: The longer you leave the print in in contact with Developer the darker it will get. It is important to get the print into the print into the Stop Bath promptly after leaving the Developer.

 

Fig 3.1 Trays set up in a row ready to bathe some prints. For this instruction set however, there are two more  trays with water in to rinse the finished print.
Bathing Your Print: (Lights OFF)

There are various ways to dry a completed print. You can use a string and a clothespin like in the movies, or you can use a drying rack or a fancy drying cabinet.

Choose the drying method that is most appropriate for your space/output/budget.

If your print doesn't look like you want, use this troubleshooting guide to help you figure out what to change to make your next print better.

Congratulations!

You've just made a black&white print from start to finish!

This process is a little time-consuming but a quality end product from the darkroom is much more fulfilling than a 'perfect' print from your automatic digital camera's memory card.

Make sure to clean up your darkroom: Pour uncontaminated chemicals back into the bottles with the little spout on the side of the tray and wipe down the counters.