I had just started the first pitch of Crescent Arch and was about 60 feet up. I had done the 5.9 move and was feeling quite honed for a great day of climbing. My best budy Gill was belaying. It was perfect weather, a fine day to be alive. A was in a wonderful manic mood. That was all about to change.

All of I sudden I heard a noise I will never forget. At first I thought it was a major rock fall. I wish it had been. Looking over to my right was a climber falling down the slab. As I watched I could not believe that the rope was not locking up. When I first saw him he was about 100 feet above me, about 30 feet to the right. I will never forget the look of sheer terror on his face. I have never seen that look since. At this point he was still unhurt. I watched as the rope started to absorb the energy of the fall. It looked like a big rubber band. Just as the rope had absorbed most of the kinetic energy, the slab he was falling down changed angle (This is labled 3rd class slabs on the topo). He was spun backwards and slammed his head into the rock. Looking over he was  hanging like a limp doll from his harness. Both his legs and arms pointing down, he was supported at the waist.

For a few seconds I was in shock. After snapping out of it, I told Gill to lower me back to the belay. He then belayed me over to the injuried climber.

I told his friend to lower him down a few feet, to take the slack off the rope so I could position him on a ledge. He was near death. His breathing was shallow and weak. He had lost fluid from both ears and had raccoon eyes.

I told Gill to stay with him and I ran down from Daff to the road. I was at this point covered in blood. Stoping the first car I could, I told them to drive back to the Gas Station and dial 911. I told them the name of the rock and climb. I told them that it was a critical situation. I waited 30 minutes before 2 ranger SUV's arrived at high speed, followed by YOSAR. I tolded them that the climber would need immediate evac by copter. They called the valley and requested the chopper.

I then lead the climbers back to the accident scene.  With the help of other climbers CPR was being given. About one hour after the accident the Heli dropped off two paramedics. They tried in vain, but 20 minutes latter they called it. As the huey hovered we pushed the stokes litter into the copter.
Dead at 22 years of age.

It appears the climber was leading the second pitch of Apparition 5.8R and missed the only bolt on the second pitch (Thanks Bob Kamps) He was trying to make the belay when he fell. He fell 200'.

I think a helmet would have saved his life.
 

Jeff 'Started climbing with a helmet a few weeks later' Wilson