I'm into planes, helicopters, boats, cars, and
gliders/sailplanes. Mostly glow, some electric. Never enough time to fly. All seasons, any weather. Nothing worse than soggy conditions for paper combat ribbon though!
Started in R/C back in the 1970's and got away from it for a good (bad?) long while.
R/C combat is what really got me back into the scene along with a guy I work
with, Mark Shieh. I will be eternally grateful to him for getting me back
into the hobby. My wife, however, doesn't appreciate the damage my
reintroduction to R/C has had on our bank account.
Yarnell Skypark R/C Photo Gallery
Frequencies occupied at our
Some of the planes at the field:
- Combat Gremlin - After trying several different models we
initially settled on this one for combat. Now we're getting into SPAD's
(see below). Check out this Gremlin web page. I
put together the wing graphics seen at below/right for my Gremlins. If
you'd like the full size images just email me. I print them out using a
heat-fusing color laserjet printer and apply them to my Gremlin wings using
water-based polyurethane. This covering technique works great - it's
fuel-proof and easily repaired. Combat
is absolutely the most fun I've ever had flying R/C. Try it!
Building some 1/12th scale combat planes but haven't completed them yet.
- Floppy Disk II - Brought to my attention by Dave Walker of Pittsburgh. Check out his web page for details on this really fun flying disc.
- Sig Kadet - My first full house control model. Over 20 years and
still flying. (Not all original parts though!)
SPAD's - a must-see site is
Awesome site! Check it out!!!
A couple of Avistars
- Sig Kougar, Sig Clipped Wing Cub, Telemaster 40, Gremlins, SPAD's
In for repairs:
Helis at the field:
- Raptor 30's by Dan
Durachko (pictured), Mark Shieh, and Dave McCloskey
- Ninja Pro by Chuck Feighner
- Lite Machines heli by Mark Shieh
Gone but not forgotten:
- Sig Kavalier - I highly recommend this model as an intermediate trainer. However, I'd envision no problems jumping straight into a Sig Kougar.
Flying Field Directions:
We're in the middle of Pennsylvania in the town of Yarnell. Ours is a "private"
flying field on ground owned by my wife and me. Situated on a hill with a couple of hundred acres of unobstructed flying and a grass strip roughly 30 by 125 feet.
Line Art Map / Satellite Image /
or check out this
QuickTimeVR movie of the
Our Local R/C Club:
The State College Radio Control Club,
is our local club.
Visit the "Best" Crash Pics Page!
Caution: Adult content. Viewer discretion advised.
Contains scenes of wanton destruction. Still interested? Okay - grit
your teeth and click here
Some R/C Hints:
Ever cut/nick/lose/damage an Rx antenna? You can easily solder a new
one back on if you have any soldering skill at all. We lose 'em all them
time flying combat. Just determine
what length you
need and find yourself some flexible stranded wire of about the same gauge
as your original. I've switched to using
W.S. Dean's base-loaded antennae on nearly all of my craft to avoid losing
Rx wires. They are only $10 and are nearly indestructible.
Want a cheap performance increase from that engine that seems just a wee bit
too small? Try a mousse can muffler! Headers for just about any
popular engine are available from Macs
Products and here's a
super post on making the can. IMPORTANT NOTE: Instead of
going to all this trouble with JB Weld, cutting the header, etc. you can also
just do the following: #1: Put your
pressure tap into the header
instead of the can. #2: Instead of a stinger just drill a 1/4"
hole in the bottom/side of the can. #3: Use multiple layers of
"nesting" silicone tubing (available at
Macs Products or I've also
read automotive silicone heater hose works) and/or some sort of heat & fuel
resistant shim material (I use sticky backed foil tape for sealing duct board -
no, NOT duct tape.) to make a friction fit can. Peel the entire "lid" off
of the can with diagonal cutters and/or needle nosed pliers and you're left with
a nice dull round edge that'll slip nicely over your properly shimmed header and
Here's a detailed guide to make up for my less than perfect descriptions! I fly these cans on all my combat ships and not
having to go through the JB Weld and other time-consuming steps after a midair
crunch on my mousse can is a real bonus!
Want to save money? Who doesn't?
Mix your own fuel.
My R/C Toolbox:
For balancing rotor heads and other "heavy" items you just gotta have a
high point balancer. I bought the Robart and found it required some
modification to suit me. DuBro
also sells one but I'm not sure how they compare. A magnetic prop
balancer is much better - IMHO - for props and "light" items (e.g.: a tail
Some R/C Links: