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I'm into planes, helicopters, boats, cars, and gliders/sailplanes.  Mostly glow, some electric.  Never enough time to fly.  All seasons, any weather.  Nothing worse than soggy conditions for paper combat ribbon though!  Started in R/C back in the 1970's and got away from it for a good (bad?) long while.  R/C combat is what really got me back into the scene along with a guy I work with, Mark Shieh.  I will be eternally grateful to him for getting me back into the hobby.  My wife, however, doesn't appreciate the damage my reintroduction to R/C has had on our bank account.

Visit the Yarnell Skypark R/C Photo Gallery

Frequencies occupied at our field

Some of the planes at the field:

Under construction:

In for repairs:

Helis at the field:

Gone but not forgotten:

Flying Field Directions:

  • We're in the middle of Pennsylvania in the town of Yarnell. Ours is a "private" flying field on ground owned by my wife and me.  Situated on a hill with a couple of hundred acres of unobstructed flying and a grass strip roughly 30 by 125 feet.

    Wanna visit?  Line Art Map / Satellite Image / MapQuest Map

    or check out this QuickTimeVR movie of the field

    Our Local R/C Club:

  • The State College Radio Control Club, SCRC, is our local club.

    Visit the "Best" Crash Pics Page!

  • Caution:  Adult content.  Viewer discretion advised.  Contains scenes of wanton destruction.  Still interested?  Okay - grit your teeth and click here Show me!!!

    Some R/C Hints:

  • Ever cut/nick/lose/damage an Rx antenna?  You can easily solder a new one back on if you have any soldering skill at all.  We lose 'em all them time flying combat.  Just determine what length you need and find yourself some flexible stranded wire of about the same gauge as your original.  I've switched to using W.S. Dean's base-loaded antennae on nearly all of my craft to avoid losing Rx wires.  They are only $10 and are nearly indestructible.
  • Want a cheap performance increase from that engine that seems just a wee bit too small?  Try a mousse can muffler!  Headers for just about any popular engine are available from Macs Products and here's a super post on making the canIMPORTANT NOTE:  Instead of going to all this trouble with JB Weld, cutting the header, etc. you can also just do the following:  #1:  Put your pressure tap into the header instead of the can.  #2:  Instead of a stinger just drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom/side of the can.  #3:  Use multiple layers of "nesting" silicone tubing (available at Macs Products or I've also read automotive silicone heater hose works) and/or some sort of heat & fuel resistant shim material (I use sticky backed foil tape for sealing duct board - no, NOT duct tape.) to make a friction fit can.  Peel the entire "lid" off of the can with diagonal cutters and/or needle nosed pliers and you're left with a nice dull round edge that'll slip nicely over your properly shimmed header and silicone tubing.  Here's a detailed guide to make up for my less than perfect descriptions!  I fly these cans on all my combat ships and not having to go through the JB Weld and other time-consuming steps after a midair crunch on my mousse can is a real bonus!
  • Want to save money?  Who doesn't?  Mix your own fuel.

    My R/C Toolbox:

  • For balancing rotor heads and other "heavy" items you just gotta have a high point balancer.  I bought the Robart and found it required some modification to suit me.  DuBro also sells one but I'm not sure how they compare.  A magnetic prop balancer is much better - IMHO - for props and "light" items (e.g.:  a tail rotor assembly).
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    Some R/C Links: